Diary of a Labellover By A. Fashionista

Why I love Esquire UK

Listen guys, if there is one website that you need to bookmark (besides mine that is and if you are lucky I will tell you about my secret one), it is Esquire UK.  I have a thing for British men, fashion, culture and vocabulary and eventually I want to move to London. In the meantime, I'm happy to refer my the fashion-challenged men in my life to this site that speaks your language and doesn't try ridiculously hard like every other men's magazine published in the US, save Robb Report.

The UK version is laid out cleanly and simply, covering the topics that are important in any man's life - grooming, style, food, tech and women. What more could you possible ask for?  What is even better is that you get the British perspective on American designers and culture as well as the british culture. 

Now you can be on on the coolest global cocktails, style trends, and tech gadgets that simply not worth living without. 

Barney's Mayhem

Last week, my friend Alec asked me to accompany him to the Barney's Warehouse Sale.  We had agreed to meet at 10:30 am and it wasn't surprising that even on Thursday morning the Men's department was crowded.  With a few exceptions, the men were just as blood thirsty about 75% designer clothes as women. 

I worked expertly and efficiently to find Alec the sizes and styles that would create the right look but offer the versatility that was critical for his lifestyle.  As a young entrepreneur in the mobile space who recently sold his second company, dressing more conservatively with a modern edge was his top priority.  This is a guy who NEVER wears ties and lives in jeans.  Working within those constraints, we were able to find some perfect fitting jeans, a few gorgeous sport coats that were versatile enough to go from work to play and shoes, lots and lots of loafers! 

Assisting my friends in shopping is one of my favorite past times because I'm never afraid to tell them what works and what doesn't.  I also always take into consideration the lifestyle they lead or aspire to lead.  

I will say that the Barney's Warehouse sale is still a bit overpriced, even at 70%.  I would take my consignment shops and thrift stores any day.  :)

The Revival of Gordon Gekko

 

I recently had a debate with a male acquaintance of mine  over appropriate menswear attire.  He is quite famous for his trademark blue sweaters and cardigans.  I believe that a good suit is an essential item to a man's wardrobe and can instantly give him the boost of confidence he needs when he is having an off day. The conversation we had made me think of the days of Wall Street and Gordon Gekko, how he wore his Italian suits with subtle grace and confidence and didn't let them wear him, like the average American man. He commanded respect at every turn, even from the intelligent but naive Charlie Sheen. 

As my acquaintance reminds me though, life is not the movies.  However, it is important to point out that when you are in a business meeting executives are more likely to listen to what you have to say if you are polished in both your wardrobe presentation and your delivery.   The person I mentioned in this post happens to work in one of the toughest industries- advertising.  I say this because not only are the personalities brutal but the dress code is not finite, sometimes it calls to be relaxed and creative, other times you are in boardroom and that suit becomes your savior.

One of my favorite men's blogs, Cool Material, ran a piece on men's suits that are inexpensive and reminiscent of Gordon Gekko and his Wall Street era. Indochino is the hottest and largest online custom suit company that understands the modern gentleman's needs to look stylish on a budget.  Their BESPOKE suits begin at the $300 range and can be shipped in 3 weeks.  Since the company is run by two men, they live and die by their no-hassle return policy.  Why settle for the ill-fitting Men's Wearhouse suit when you can order a suit fit to your measurements right from the comfort of your desk? 

PS. the cardigans and blue sweaters are great too because they are you. 

Morphing from Man to Gentleman

In Jewish culture, a boy becomes a man at his Bar Mitzvah.  However, the question remains, at what age does the man become the Gentleman?   I have met many men in their 20's with successful careers who have the maturity level of the 12 year old Jewish boy waiting for his rite of passage.  Understanding that being a gentleman holds one of the keys to success in life, this doesn't mean you have to change who you are, its merely just refining certain parts.   Therefore,  I have put together a mini- guide, with the help of my British Esquire friends to give you a sense of where you are in the rite of passage.

1. You open doors for a woman in any situation.

2. On a date, you compliment the woman when you first see but only once.  Sincerity is critical and over-complimenting a woman is a turnoff.

3.  You have graduated from the electric razor to double safety razor and you actually employ the technique of a shaving brush.

4.  Your closet has a winter suit and a summer suit. If you emulate Cary Grant, there may even be a tuxedo.

5.  You realize the essential role a collar stay plays in wardrobe. Who doesn't luv the collar stay?

6. You may not be a Mixologist but you can make a killer Martini.

7. You understand the importance of being connected but when you are with "her" , emails can wait.

8. The gut instinct can sometimes fail you. However, you never do a deal with someone you mom wouldn't like. (Mom's really do know best)

10.  When entering into negotiations  you remember a few  of the basic rules:  keep cool.  know your threshold.  Never underestimate history - even if it is the first time you are in negotiations with other person, you should understand their style and have a sense of how they operate.

Answer Key:

-If you can't mix a martini, you have more than 2 suits and you answered "true" to less than 4  other statements, then your rite of passage is not yet complete, and you are still a BOY.

- If you answered "true" to 4 of the 10 statements but still only have one all around suit in your closet, you FAIL and are considered to be a FRAT BOY.

-Answering "true" to to more than 7 of the 10 statements is giving Frank Sinatra a run for his money..you've got game baby...

Why the Brits Do it Better

I realize it has been awhile since I have posted but generally I just haven't been feeling that inspired.  However, a recent visit to a Hudson News stand while I was waiting for the train to AC changed all of that.

British Esquire v. American Esquire

Battle of the Rags

 

Let's get down to brass tacks.  I've read the latest Esquire issues cover to cover and I stand behind the old saying that the "Brits just do it better."  Now before you call emigration, keep in mind that I can validate my reasoning.

1.  "No Strings" sex advice - The columnist provides no anesthetic when it comes to doling out advice to insecure hubbies and boyfriends. Everything from bedroom manners to ex-distress is discussed.   Whether An advisory message should come with it for weak-hearted men who "Can't Handle the truth" as Jack Nickolson so passionately put it in "A Few Good Men" is the only question that I want to ask...

2.  Grade A Masculinity - British Esquire is Redbull and American Esquire is Diet Coke.  The Brits uncannily get how to represent the well-rounded man - a sprinkling of executive tips, a dash of fashion & grooming tips, a pinch of party etiquette blended with inspiring down to earth articles on pioneering entrepreneurs. Simmer and serve....

3.  Cover looks - This may be a tighter race because the Coverboy has to do more with personal taste. Daniel Radcliffe v. Gerard Butler?  I'll leave that decision up to you, except to say that here again we see the "well-rounded" card being played more often in the British edition.  Extra points, of course, go to the Brits too for a cleaner design layout.  Using different typefaces just looks messy on the front cover rather than intended purposed of  "creative and rugged".

4.  Virtual Rag - No contest here.  The Brits rule.  The site takes on a blog like feel where the US site is way too commercial and busy.

5.  The "IT" Factor - Taking into consideration design and layout, the up and comers featured, and the cutting edge brands, the Brits definitely have the "IT" factor.

Note: A. Fashionista is single.  If you know a dishy, charismatic Brit, feel free to send him my way. :)

Proper Cloth Gets Funky with a New Fabric Selection

It's no secret that I am a huge fan of Seph Skerritt's virtual made-to-measure shop, Proper Cloth. In all honesty, the biggest drawback to the site for the longest time was the fabric selection - I'm not afraid to say that it was limited. Recently, however, that has changed with the addition of 20 new fabrics - 10 in the accent patterns for those who like to be different, and 10 in various weaves to suit every budget and style in 100's, 120s and 140s.

What I love about Proper is that they understand what a man is looking for in style, customer service and in a website experience. The shopping experience is thorough without being overcomplicated, showing you several different perspectives of the fabric -the experience almost mimics a visit with your tailor. They styles they have let you build and develop your own. Starting off with the conservative basics, they appeal to both the conservative male and the edgy guy by providing accent fabrics in the collar and cuffs.

 With Father's Day right around the corner, why not target your inner fashion designer and design the ultimate Proper Cloth shirt? Proper Clothing makes the man.

 photo credit: flickr courtesy of carbonated

Holy Stripe! Men's Fashion Inspired by the Scrum

I have to give credit to my fellow twitter friend @trymyfashion, for pointing out the latest and may I say, hottest men's fashion trend, Ive seen in awhile.  I am so excited about this that I am dedicated an ENTIRE blog post to it.  What is it?  Horizontal stripes.

When I first saw this piece, my first reaction was, " inspired by Rugby."   It made be think back to when I was in college and how I dated and later married a Rugby player.  Nothing was more exciting than watching him in the scrum, locked arm-in arm in those classic navy/gold -wide-striped shirts. Yes, it appears that men's fashion is looking to it's down and dirty roots to marry that sleek but casual look. Considering the fact that Rugby is the most masculine and feral of all gentleman's sports, I find it to be a natural fit. 

Check out my favorite looks of this modern interpretation on a classic sport that allows a man to be versatile and sophisticated...

 

 

Photo credits:  Elissa Wiehn

A. Fashionista's Crib Notes on the Critically Important Randoms

In providing crib notes on Esquire's Spring 09 The Big Black Book relating to style, grooming and etiquette, I have given men the tools they need to be confident in themselves.  This post is like the cherry on the sundae, giving the lowdown on those critically important random tips that every guy should bear knowledge of, if he's any kind of REAL man.

Critically Important Randoms

Beating the Heat - What's the fastest way to cool yourself down on a hot, sticky day?   Press a cold beer or soda can on the back of your neck - one area of the body most prone to overheating.  What NOT to do?  Splash cold water on your face.  Totally ineffective.  Rather, run cold water where your pulse points are.  This will help constrict the blood vessels that dilate when you overheat.  Medical advice 101 from Esquire!

Office essentials (that your office manager can't provide) - Collar stays (even I use them). A fresh packet of white undershirts.  Havaianas - the perfect summer commuter shoe- office to beach. Trust me, these flips are the perfect complement to the seersucker or linen suit.

Packing a 6 Pack or More? - I'm not talking about your abs. I'm talking about a cooler.  After all, the likelihood that you will be attending a bbq or outdoor event is pretty high.  Why not show off those mad Macgyver skills with a tight but efficiently packed cooler?  It's simple.  1) Chill everything overnight.  2)Cans go on their sides. Bottles go straight up. Fill any gaps with placing bottles upside down.  3) Cover with ice and continue to layer until full. 

Big head sunglasses dilemma - We have all had this experience. Somehow your beloved sunglasses manage to get stretched out! You know your head is not the culprit but mysteriously it plagues you anyway.  Of course, now that I have Silhouettes, that is never a problem anymore. The fix if they are plastic?  Esquire suggests immersing the arms in boiling water for a few seconds.  Dry.  Reshape. Dip in tepid water.  Voila. Newly reshaped glasses.  Magnifique!

Keeping your whites white - One of the summer "must haves" is white shoes.  While it is true that white is notoriously difficult to keep clean, Esquire has graciously provided tips to keep your shoes looking brand spanking new!  Share these with the woman in your life and you will be her hero!
    1) Leather sneaker - scuff marks can be easily removed with nail polish remover. For yellowing or darkening? A 50/50 solution of water and lemon juice with a day in the sun will bleach it out.
    2) Canvas sneaker - the water and lemon mixture works great here to.  However, add a tablespoon of baking soda for more stubborn stains. Need a quick fix? Try Hollywood Sani-White.
    3)  Leather shoes - A pencil eraser will erase the scuff marks.  Hollywood Sani-White works great on leather too!

The dirt on stain removal - Who needs a dry cleaner for every little stain? Try these Macgyver-esque tips for stain removal and make your Mom proud!
     1)  BBQ Stain - Rinse with cold water, then sponge the stain with white wine vinegar. Rinse.  Apply laundry detergent to the stain and let si for 10 minutes.
     2)  Chili Sauce - Mix cream of tartar powder with lemon juice. Apply
     3)  Grease - Sprinkle cornstarch or Gold Bond powder onto stain. Let dry. Brush off.

Cheers to a fabulous summer!
   

A. Fashionista's Crib Notes on Men's Style

  On Friday afternoon, before I hopped on the train bound for the Garden State, I came across Esquire's Spring 2009 The Big Black Book.  The guy behind the register made sure to reiterate that I was paying $9.95 for what he seemed to think was a waste of money but I somehow I knew it would be money well spent. My instincts were spot on.  In honor of Editor-in-Chief David Granger's first ever spring edition of the Big Black Book, I thought I would offer the crib notes version considering how chock full of etiquette tips and style advice can be found between the pages. That said, every day will be devoted to a different topic  today being - the fashion must haves for summer. Who said print was dead?

Summer Fashion Must Haves

Hot shades keep you looking cool - Esquire men recommend the Ray-Ban Wayfarer,  Aviator or Persol.  After all, everyone knows, that rocking a flattering pair of sunglasses ups your style quotient at least 50%.  Honestly, I prefer my Silhouettes - innovators of rimless eyewear.  Constructed of titanium- they are virtually weightless.  Recognized by NASA as their official eyewear for their astronauts. If its good enough for a space monkey, it's good enough for a fashion junkie. 

The Guy wore white - Shoes that is.  Top Siders. Bucks. Canvas trainers.  Pick your favorite sole that best fits the occasion and personality. The rugged Top Sider for the casual/active type. After all, this shoe's whole reason for being is it's flex appeal and the ability to provide grip on the slipperiest of surfaces. Bucks for dressier soirees.  Leave the good old canvas trainers for those times when the need calls - necessity was the mother of invention, after all.

Sartorial Summer Sense - As you get older, chances are your summers will be filled with events that require you to break out the sartorial splendor of a suit.  In general, the tighter the weave in the fabric, the less porous it will be.  Chances are, the gabardine suit you wore to cousin Sarah's wedding isn't going to do you any favors in the summer heat. Therefore, choose an open weave fabric. Enter my personal favorite - Seersucker - the perfect summer solution.   The porous material keeps you cool, yet the texture and design of the fabric will make you a style standout.

Surf's Up - Summer means one thing:  bathing suit season.  As someone who has spent every summer at the beach since she could walk, I do know a thing or two about mens' swimsuits. For instance, like their dry land counterpart, the only real option for every guy, no matter what type of shape you are in is the board short, which typically falls right above the knee and has a fitted waistband.  The only other swimsuit tip I can offer is break out of the boring hawaiian flowerprint and go for a more cutting edge pattern. Vilebrequin, is innovative swimwear from St. Tropez that is colorful and technologically advanced. Manufactured from a smooth, synthetic cloth that air dries instantly, the minute you step out of the water.

Flash of Ankle-  The Italians, whom we should ALL take lessons in style from believe that when a man is wearing a pair of trousers that he should go sockless. While flashing a bit of ankle may seem out of character for many hot blooded American men (after all it requires a shorter/cuffed pant), I have found that this classic European look is v. sophisticated and a bit sexy.  It's important to push your style boundaries once in awhile...

Time is of the Essence - I have always believed that a man is not complete without a good watch strapped to his wrist.  I'm sorry the smart phone is not a replacement for a watch, a timepiece.  I have blogged about this before and my ex, who has since passed away, was a brilliant entrepreneur/ int'l businessman, and a HUGE fan of IWC. Technomarine makes great diving watches with pinache. Esquire also highly recommends Breitling, Longines, or for the world traveler -Jacob & Co.'s World GMT which has the ability to track 33 different locations. 

You complete me - It's all about the other half to add compliment to your captivating manner.  Summer is the time to relax and step out with that special someone in your life.  Companionship is the perfect accessory to top off that stylish outfit. Single in the summer? So yesterday. Work/life balance is key to a successful career, cherish the downtime by creating  great memories!

Check back tomorrow for the Black Book crib notes on grooming tips.

A Bespoken Investment

A recent article in the FT talks about how revenue is rising in mens' tailored clothing, while womens' fashion is on the decline.  There is good reason for this and it has much to do with the shopping patterns of men v. women. While men tend to shop based on necessity and therefore tend to buy enough to last for an entire season, women are the opposite.   The shopping habits of females are more sporadic and based on mood and trend.  Lastly, while some men consider it a non-issue to spend a month's salary on clothes, a woman is always seeking value and mostly likely will purchase the sale item over the full priced item even if she isn't in love with it.

Although bespoke may be  more expensive on the upfront, it is an investment well worth making, given that a a handmade suit can last 10 years. To the rational-minded male this is something that clearly seems to be resonating as sales amongst Savile Row tailors have risen 12% in 2009.   A recent survey* of high-end customers revealing a dissatisfaction  due to "mass market luxury"  and lack of customer service only reinforces that custom is the perfect fit.  

Photo credit:  Savile row, Norton & Sons

*62% of wealthy consumers, according to Luxury Institute survey (March, 2009)